95 36v car won't move, not the solenoid...

[tag50]

There is one more thing you should check first. At the multi-step V-glide there are a black wire and a white wire. Follow them to where they "Y" or "T" and disconnect so you're only working with the wires from the V-glide. Set your meter for ohms, trigger the throttle. You should get a variation of ohms with the variation of throttle.


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[Tomahawk]

On this check which wires should the vom probes be on?

[tag50]

It doesn't matter as to what probe is on what color. When the black and white are disconnected from the splices there is no current. You'll just be measuring the varying resistance of the V-glide.


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[Tomahawk]

so far I'm replacing both micro switches. I don't think that's the only issue, but I've tested those to be bad I beleive. Not getting continuity when I should be. Still doesn't explain why the charger doesn't turn on though. When I tested the fwd rev micro switch i had no continuity when I should have. When I tested the power to the solenoid from the b glide switch I had no continuity, and again no continuity when testing that switch alone. So for a few bucks I'll replace them both and keep going. The fuse on the charger port looks dirty and old but it's still one piece, but I think I'm gonna take it off and clean the unit up to make sure power isn't jumping anywhere and tricking this thing into thinking it's already charging.

[tag50]

Is this a coil resister or a controller cart? For some reason I was thinking it was a controller cart but the colors you give on the F+R micro switch match a resistor cart.


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[Tomahawk]

It's a resistor cart.

[Tomahawk]

I'm not sure on the different models, but this seems to be a base model used on a golf course. No frills here. Yet...

If I can get the dang thing running first. Lol

[tag50]

OK, My bad. I gave you the wrong wire colors for m/s in the V-glide. The small wires coming from the V-glide should black and green. Those wires should be connected to the C (common) and the NC (normally closed) lugs of m/s. There are 3 lugs and misconnecting is sometimes done.

Also take a look at the Sticky for wiring diagrams at top of this section and see if post #12 matches your cart.

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[Tomahawk]

Yep #12 is my wiring. And ya, I checked the wiring to make sure it was connected correctly. The middle prong doesn't have anything connected. I can't read it from my angle, but that appears to be the no prong that shouldn't have anything on it from the diagram

[Tomahawk]

For testing purposes to continue to troubleshoot while those parts come in, is it safe to just jumper the wires for the switches? I know they are there to basically eliminate arcing so I wasn't sure if it would be safe for this sort of temporary purpose. I wouldn't bypass them permanently of course.