Voltage reducer after the key switch? Will it shut off the radio?

[scotch69ca]

Well, thanks to everyone for the replies and the all the info.
I think I've finally made a decision on what route I'm going to take.
Since I've already purchased the voltage converter reducer, I'm gonna give that a go and see how well it handles the loads I may put on it. If it fails, then I will definitely go with a seperate battery (or two).
As for the keyed power to the voltage reducer and radio, I've decided to stick with the "norm" and install a seperate switch for all that stuff, for one reason only, my cart spends most of the time at the campground and there are so many kids runnin around that the thought of leaving the cart in teh "ON" position, just to listen to the radio could end with catastrophic results if one of the kids were to jump in the cart and hit the pedal. I've already seen it happen a couple of times where a kid stepped on the gas pedal and drove the cart into someones trailer, not good.

I hope this thread keeps getting hits with more good ideas so everyone can take from it something they can use.

Thanks again

[scotch69ca]

In case anyone is interested in an update, I've pretty much finished my "install", which was highly influenced/inspired by a build done by a memeber called Hotcat, most of which you'll be able to identifiy, if you're familiar with his build.

I ended up installing a 48V-12V 20A reducer, the 48V power was run through my original key switch and then to the reducer (this is to prevent an knuckle heads from running my radio while I'm away or wherever). One Hotcat inspriation was the addition of the round key switch to replace the orginal switch. By adding the round key switch it freed up the origianl switch to be used for my accessories, plus, the round key looks pretty sweet and it's a cheap alternative if you're looking for an uncommon key for your cart.

From the reducer I ran the 12V power supply to a Blue Sea Fuse Block. I connected my headlights, radio, amplifier, a 12V accessory plug and the LED undercarriage lights. The radio is suppling power to two 6.5" Polk Audio speakers (DB651 sound great) and the amp is running a single 8" Boston Acoustic sub.
I also installed a 7-55V Blue Digital Voltage Meter in the dash, in between the reducer and after the switch, this way it only comes on when the "accessory" key switch is turned on.
Now I know there was some concern about running too much on a 20A reducer, but, so far there hasn't been any problems...so far. No blips, no radio shut offs, or dimming lights. knock on wood, but everything is going strong, now that doesn't mean the reducer might not crap out anytime soon, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I love running with the two key switches, it reminds me of some nuclear reactor where you need the two people to turn both switches simultaneously to activate the self destruct sequence, hehe. Plus the fact that now the reducer and all the accessories have the power cut off when not in use. Well, except for the memory wire from the radio which is wired to one of my 12V batteries (the cart uses 4x12V batteries) cause it's a pain in the *** re-programming the radio stations everytime, AAHHH!

All in all everything went well.

I'm sure I'm missing some info here, but if you have any questions or pointers for next time, please keep in touch.

Scott

[Marcus De Carcus]

I know this a few yrs later with this thread, but to answer the main question.... connecting from the dead side of the key switch pull a new wire to the area where the converter will be located.

Connect that "keyed hot" to the coil of a relay (matching the voltage of your system & the amperage of your converter) (i.e. I'm using a 48V 80Amp relay for a 60Amp Converter) & then ground the other side of the relay coil to the "-" of battery group.

Connect a wire of appropriate gauge (matching converter wire) from "+" of battery group to one side of relay, from other side of relay connect to input "+" of converter & then connect ground of converter to "-" of battery group.

Connect output "+" of converter to fuse panel, then from fuse panel out to accessories you want to power. This will not keep radio memory because you are killing all 12 volt power by keyed relay.

The other option is to place the relay in between the converter & the fuse panel. Then you could fuse off the converter for radio memory. Understand this will mean your converter is constantly on (i.e. you're connecting converter directly to battery group).

Hope this helps.