Scottyb's solid state conversion V2

[scottyb]

Hello - I will show here a conversion example from resistor coil drive to solid state speed control.

Some of you may say "Why would you want to do that? " I say go here and read this > Why convert to modern solid state

Some will say my cart is older or newer than this example and I say; Your cart may vary slightly from this one. It may have 5 solenoids on the resistor coils but they all share commonalities that perform the same drive control functions.

Please DO NOT use this thread to ask for help trouble shooting your install.

Start a new thread for that. Hopefully I can answer some questions by posting this example. If you still need help myself and BGW members will be happy to help in your own thread

[scottyb]

First of all what is V2? Version 2
V2 is a new generation conversion kit that features a new electronic go pedal using a hall effect sensor. This water resistant pedal sends a more precise signal. The new Alltrax SR controller makes this type of voltage signal communication possible.
The Alltrax control also has many new features. One new feature makes personality switching possible.

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/about-...ntrollers.html

[scottyb]

We bought our 1989 CC From Wayne's golf cart service at West coast battery builders in Indio CA. Delivery was prompt and the cart was better than described. They have many modern carts too

It is a great example of a clean un-molested 80s Club Car deserving modern electronics. We bought new 8v batteries knowing our kit and the motor would support 48v operation.

48v is not needed but it does produce 33% more speed and torque from the stock motor. I expect we will go from 12 mph to 18 mph with the voltage increase.

[scottyb]

I started with this > pic 1
I removed the 6 batteries for trade-ins using cable cutters to hasten the work.
And quickly removed all components of the old drive system starting with the heat shield and resistor coils. Use cable cutters to speed the work, you will not reuse these old cables or components.
I'm looking to clear the cart of all drive components in this manner except for the keyswitch..... and sometimes that is old & needs replacing too. Any 2 pole 20 a switch will do. Keyed or otherwise.

[scottyb]

In the same manner remove the solenoid.
I'm planning on using the SW182 reversing contactor for the F&R duties. I really like the way the rocker switch F&R from the Precedent moderns the look and operation of these old carts.
Remove the old rotary F&R as shown = snip snip snip

[scottyb]

Next out is the V-glide. Disconnect the gas pedal linkage by sliding the retention collar back and pulling the linkage to the passenger side away from the V-glide. Find and remove the 2 small nuts holding the V-glide to the frame.
And remove the octopus looking unit from the cart leaving a nearly blank canvas... I removed the Charge receptacle later to replace the charge wires ... it could come out now.
I replaced these wires because they are 30 yrs old and it seems silly at this point to leave any old wires in my cart. Also the charge receptacle terminals are a PIA and better dealt with on the work bench.

[scottyb]

As I said - Also the charge receptacle terminals are a PIA and better dealt with on the work bench.
Pic one shows the wires at the receptacle fuse. I do not reuse this fuse. It is discarded and new 10g wires were soldered up to connect the charge receptacle directly to the battery pack. One charge wire connected to the Alltrax main fuse provided as shown later.

[scottyb]

If you are using a HD F&R install the switch now using the hardware you saved from removing the original. I'm using the SW182 reversing contactor so we will begin with some bench prep, installing the very important voltage suppression diodes now.
NOTE - the small terminals are marked + and - . Can anybody tell me why this is ?
As you guessed, the coils and the diodes are polarity sensitive. Get these wrong and you make trouble !
I am mounting this contactor in our demo model using a black L bracket. Later models used a silver bracket. The unit mounts on or near where the old solenoid mounted just below the old F&R location.
NOTE- mounting components where and as shown here insures our cable set will have the right length for the 1-8 numbered cables in your plans..

If you are making your own cables mount stuff were ever you like and try to keep the runs short for best results.

[scottyb]

If you have not already remove the motor cables using 2 wrenches per terminal.

NOTE - The bottom nut (closest to the motor case) must not turn. Hold it still with one wrench while removing the top nut. Install using the same process.

Use a fine sandpaper or scrub pad to reveal the motor terminal ID stamped in the motor case. The motor terminal layout is also in your instruction.

[scottyb]

Add a support and mount the Alltrax SR controller on the driver side of the cart.
From the local Lowes or Home Depot get a 3ft Piece of 1.5 x 1.5 aluminum angle metal.
Trace and drill 2 holes in the cart frame for the Alltrax control where the resistor coils were mounted.
Measure & cut the 1.5 angle so it can support the other side of the controller and bolt to the main frame on each side as shown.

Mount the solenoid on the cart's vertical support on the passenger side of the cart just behind the batteries and the half-way underneath the seat opening as shown. For clarity note the motor location and see the new cross-member install below the solenoid