Flywheel Removal Ideas....

Lochlin

Guys,

I am doing the seals on my brother in law's '78. I got the clutch off no problem but the flywheel is giving me issues. I have had success in the past getting these flywheels off simply by using a wheel puller on the little indentation that is located an inch or so down from the top of the flywheel. No luck with the one I am working on now, though, as my wheel puller is slipping from the indentation before this bugger pops up.

Before I run out and buy yet another tool I wanted to throw a couple of thoughts out there as a sanity check:

1) Anyone ever tried to use the fan screws as pull points? I am considering getting some eye bolts or something similar, same size as the fan bolts, screwing them into 3 of 6 holes on flywheel then attaching the wheel puller to them. My concern is that I don't want to strip the holes out. My thought is that, with 3 of them, they would handle it but who knows. Any thoughts on this method?

2) I am thinking about temporarily welding some wheel puller points to the top outside edge of the flywheel and using those points to attach the wheel puller. When done, I would simply grind the puller points off. I am sure that this would get the flywheel off. My concern is that the flywheel could get out of balance from the grinding. I am thinking that any balance issues would be minimal and wouldn't have much effect on anything but I am not sure. Any thoughts on this method?

Just trying to think out of the box a bit here. Any input would be appreciated.

BGW

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johnny reb

tew 45 has made pullers. luckily my dad was a millwright so we have them big arsed pullers. u use a collar tool and big puller to pop it off. message tew45 his puller looks awsome

johnny reb

here is a previous discussion about it
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-h...-flywheel.html

Lochlin

Yeah, I saw that earlier thread. The issue there is that those 66 ones used a threaded puller. The one I am working on doesn't. I assumed the it was the same deal with the collar but, now that I am thinking more about it, that collar would probably fit in the indentation I have been pulling on to date. If so I may then be able to attach the puller to the collar. Any idea where that collar you used can be found?

I still think the temporary weld has some potential too. Luckily I am in no hurry with this cart so I have time to get a plan together.

73eldo

The screw holes should work fine. I think you would break the bolts before you damage the threads. Those flywheels are pretty solid. Look up a harmonic balancer puller. Its kinda a star shaped plate with slotted holes and a screw. Cheapo ones work fine if you lube up the threads.

johnny reb

i couldnt find the pics of the one tew45 showed it was awesome it has a top with bolt a 2 piece collar that went around the top and the flywheel and a ring to hold it together. as for me i use this

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chuckbaynham

I modified an inexpensive Pitman arm puller.
As I recall, the inward facing legs(2) had to be shortened.
Found posts on the forum at the time to point me in that direction.
Good Luck

Lochlin

Yeah, I saw those posts. I am just trying to satisfy my inventive mind.

tew45

If you need info on the factory puller with instructions, look in the 1981 Columbia Par Car manual pages 5-13, 5-14 and 5-21. I usually don't have problems with the flywheel but one time it was a booger. I made a horse shoe puller and that just spread open. I eventually welded a strap on the horse shoe puller open end. That worked but the puller had to be cut off with a torch. After that I made a puller just like the factory unit and it has worked well in the hardest pulls.

mic_

I used a 3 jaw puller hooked into the groove at the top of the flywheel. Flywheel wouldn't budge. The puller would pop off when I got it real tight. I put the puller on it again and drew it up almost to the pop off stage then put heat on it around the center with a torch. Barely tapped it with a hammer and it came right off.